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local customs, tourist attractions

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idewalks from the numerous cafes, bars and restaurants around Olaf Ryes plass.
Markveien Mat & Vinhus MODERN NORWEGIAN Offline map Google map ( 22 37 22 97; Torvbakkgt 12; mains Nkr240- 290, 3 courses Nkr495) With a hint of truffle oil or a dash of dill, the cooks at Markveien make Norwegian cooking unforgettable.
The restaurant focuses on using local seafood and meat, as well as organic produce, to create its delectable dishes.
You shouldn’t miss the house specials of either lamb or crayfish.
Dr Kneipp’s Vinbar INTERNATIONAL Offline map Google map ( 22 37 22 97; Torvbakkgt 12; mains Nkr115- 300) If you’re not in the mood for the formal dining room of Markveien Mat & Vinhus, slide into one of the dark wooden booths at Dr Kneipp’s next door for finger food with a strong Spanish and Italian flavour or a sumptuous dessert (the cheesecake is legendary), not to mention an amazing 400-strong wine list.
Another plus for the place is the super-friendly staff.
Sult MODERN NORWEGIAN Offline map Google map ( 67 10 99 70; www.sult.
no; Thorvald Meyers gate 26; lunch mains Nkr99-139, dinner menu Nkr355) Sult has a polished green-and-black colour scheme and perfectly captures the Grünerl?kka vibe with an imaginative menu replete with superb fish and pasta dishes often using local and organic ingredients.
It’s always packed, so get here early and wait for a table in the attached bar appropriately called T?rst (meaning ‘thirsty’).
Bistro Brocante FRENCH Offline map Google map ( 22 35 68 71; Thorvald Meyers gate 40; lunch specials Nkr59-129, starters Nkr96-102, mains Nkr192-199) This informal French- inspired cafe serving simple French snacks and typical bistro dishes (dinner only) has some fantastic salads, quiches and even coq au vin.
The outdoor tables are at a premium in summer.
Fru Hagen INTERNATIONAL Offline map Google map ( 22 38 24 26; Thorvald Meyers gate 40; mains Nkr118-137) The low-key and always full Fru Hagen (Mrs Garden) serves sandwiches and burgers, all with a healthy side portion of vegetables.
The juicy vegie burger is well worth scoffing.
Its location facing Olaf Ryes plass also makes it good for people-watching.
Mucho Mas MEXICAN Offline map Google map ( 22 37 16 09; www.muchomas.
no; Thorvald Meyers gate 36; burritos from Nkr145) What it lacks in authenticity, Mucho Mas more than makes up for in cheese and portion size.
The full Mexican repertoire is on offer, including tacos, nachos and burritos (which are enormous); all dishes are offered in meat or vegetarian versions.
Well-priced beer helps put out the fire.
Hotel Havana DELI Offline map Google map ( Thorvald Meyers gate 38; 10am-6pm Mon- Fri) International deli with everything from French cheese to Belgian chocolates.
The chorizo and manchego sandwiches (Nkr55) are an especially good bet, and coffee is also served (of course!).
V?LERENGA & EKEBERG Smia Galleri MODERN NORWEGIAN Offline map ( 22 19 59 20; Opplandsgata 19; mains Nkr185-230) Smia Galleri is one of those places Oslo residents are so fond of they almost hate to share it.
The leafy patio is perfect on summer afternoons and there’s jazz on Thursday evenings.
If the restaurant has it, try the rhubarb crumble with wild strawberry sorbet.
It takes about 15 minutes to get here: from Oslo S, take bus 37 towards Helsfyr T-bane station and get off at V?lerenga.
Ekeberg Restaurant NORWEGIAN Offline map ( 23 24 23 00; www.ekebergrestauranten.com; Kongsveien 15; mains Nkr220, set menus from Nkr375) An early example of functionalist architecture, the 1929 Ekeberg Restaurant once attracted long lines of spectators eager to be seen enjoying a beer outside this angular, painfully white, nonconformist building.
After falling into disrepair in the 1980s, the restaurant was renovated and reopened with a classy menu and a slick bar.
If nothing else, go for the view.
HOLMENKOLLEN AREA Frognerseteren Restaurant NORWEGIAN ( 22 92 40 40; www.frognerseteren.
no; mains Nkr145-345; 11am- 10pm Mon-Sat, 11am-9pm Sun) There are three good reasons to visit Frognerseteren: the apple cake, the view and the building.
The apple cake (Nkr98) is billed as the best in Oslo and the view, from over 400m above sea level, is as good as it gets.
As for the building, with dragon heads and enough wood trim to rival the most ornate Swiss chalet, it is the epitome of the Viking revival style popular in the 1860s.
BYGD?Y PENINSULA The Bygd?y Peninsula (Offline map) doesn’t have a lot to offer hungry museum goers aside from a couple of highly overpriced cafes in or around the museums.
Generally we’d recommend taking a picnic lunch with you.
There is, however, one exception.
Café Hemma Hos MODERN NORWEGIAN Offline map ( 22 55 62 26; www.cafehemmahos.
no; Fredrikborgsveien 16; mains Nkr165-190) The owners of the Café Hemma Hos, close to the Viking Ship Museum, know there is more to culinary life than hot dogs and stale sandwiches, and have created an oasis of good food in a sea of tourist traps.
Sit out in the pleasant gardens and choose from a menu that includes pickled herrings, crayfish and a variety of tapas.
Drinking & Entertainment The tourist office’s free monthly brochure What’s On in Oslo lists current concerts, theatre and special events, but the best publication for night owls is the free Streetwise, published annually in English by Use-It.
Bars & Clubs Going out in one of the world’s most expensive cities requires a bit of skill, but high prices certainly don’t keep the locals at home.
Quite the opposite: Oslo is more vibrant, busy and nonchalantly proud of its up-and-coming status than ever.
And the manageable size of the city makes it easy to figure out where to be on any given night.
Note that many Oslo nightspots have an unwritten dress code that expects patrons to be relatively well turned out – at the very least, don’t show up in grubby gear and hiking boots.
For most bars and clubs that serve beer and wine, you must be over 18 years of age, but many places, especially those that serve spirits, impose a higher age limit.
On weekends, most Oslo nightspots remain open until at least 3am.
Beer prices for half-litres typically range from Nkr50 to Nkr65, but for those travellers watching their kroner, some places (usually grim and inhabited by wary elbow-on-the-bar locals) charge as little as Nkr30.
Stargate Offline map Google map ( Gr?nland 2; half-litre Nkr36) is a decent (well OK, maybe cheap is a better word than decent) and central dive.
The city’s best neighbourhood bar scene is along Thorvald Meyers gate and the surrounding streets in Grünerl?kka.
The Youngstorget area has some of the most popular places close to the city centre, while the Gr?nland neighbourhood has a more alternative feel.
Tea Lounge BAR Offline map Google map ( www.tealounge.
no; Thorvald Meyers gate 33b; 11am-1am Mon-Wed, 11am-3am Thu-Sat, noon-3am Sun) During the bright and cheerful daylight hours, this split-personality bar is a teashop with a superb range of brews and a chilled-out soundtrack, but in the dark of night it transforms itself into one of the hippest bars in Oslo, with a list of cocktails to suit.
Bar Boca BAR Offline map Google map ( Thorvald Meyers gate 30) Squeeze into what is quite possibly the smallest bar in Oslo a

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